Carnival the Old Way: Novljanski Mesopust
To experience Novi Vinodolski at its most authentic, come in winter rather than August. That is when the town celebrates its Mesopust, a carnival with centuries-old customs. It begins on the first Sunday after Epiphany and ends on Ash Wednesday. Since 1862 locals have recorded the festivities in the chronicle Žitak Mesopusta, now kept in the town museum.
Typical features are the three carnival Thursdays, when the small and big carnival figures are announced, plus Saturday dances and children’s parades. The highlight is the final weekend: on Sunday a big parade crosses town and people dance the Novljansko kolo on the Placa. Monday traditionally brings cheese, butter and eggs, and on Tuesday afternoon the figure Ćurunbela is carried to its burial before the last party.
Our tip: plan to be there on Sunday and Tuesday and mingle with the locals. You do not need a costume to join in, but it is more fun with one. In summer, the International Summer Carnival in late June or early July is a second, larger edition with groups from abroad. Experience both and you will understand why Novi sees itself as a carnival town. The tourist board publishes current dates on its website.