Nehaj and the Uskoks
To understand Senj you need to know about the Uskoks: Christian refugees from Ottoman Bosnia whom the Habsburgs settled in Senj to guard the frontier. From here they waged a small war against the Ottomans in fast boats, but also raided Venetian ships. Venice called them pirates, the Uskok War followed, and after a truce in 1617 they were expelled from Senj.
Their symbol is Nehaj Fortress, built in 1558. It served as a lookout: smoke and light signals from the islands and coast warned of enemy ships.
How to experience it:
• Climb the fortress through every floor to the roof terrace, with views from Krk to Velebit.
• Then stroll along Uskočka Street and across Cilnica Square in the old town.
• In July the Uskok Days take Senj back to the 16th century for two days, with tournaments, sieges and a naval battle in the harbour.
• On 8 August the big summer carnival parade starts at the fortress.
Tip: come in the late afternoon when the light softens and the old town glows below you.